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Sarajevo

Sarajevo [1], the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is a lively city of 430,000 people (urban area), nestled in a valley, mainly within the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, but with parts in the Republika Srpska entity.

[edit] Understand

Sarajevo is one of the most historically interesting cities in Europe. It is the place where the Western & Eastern Roman Empire split; where the people of the Roman Catholic west, Eastern Orthodox east and the Ottoman south, met, lived and warred. It has been both an example of historical turbulence and the clash of civilizations, as well as a beacon of hope for peace and tolerance through multi-cultural integration.
Today the city has physically recovered from most of the war damage caused by the Yugoslav Wars of the 1992-1995. Sarajevo is a cosmopolitan European capital with a unique Eastern twist that is a delight to visit. The people are very friendly, be they Bosniaks, Croats, or Serb. There is very little crime.

[edit] Get in

The city is very tourist friendly - once you get to the city centre. There is a tourist info office in the centre of town, take the #1 tram in front of the station and it will take you to town or just walk for about 20 min going right out of the train station and follow the river. Tram #1 will follow the river up until Bascarsija square (in the Turkish quarter) where it will make a 180 degree turn and drive back towards the station. The Bascarsija tram stop is located directly after the tram turns away from the river.
If you are not staying at a hotel (i.e. a private residence), you must register with the local police within 24 hours of arrival. Failure to register may result in a fine or possible removal.

[edit] By plane

Sarajevo Airport [2] (IATA: SJJ) is located 6.1km southwest of the railway station, in the suburb of Butmir.
The following airlines operate service to/from Sarajevo Airport:
Getting to/from the airport by direct public transportation has been made significantly easier with route 200E [4] operating directly to the city centre. Alternatively, you can take Bus #36 to Nedžarići (1.6 km). The bus stop is located on the main road outside the airport parking lot. At Nedžarići, you can change for a tram to the city centre (1.6 km). Bus #36 runs about every 30 minutes. Service hours are 06:00-23:00 Mon-Fri, 06:00-08:00 and 14:00-18:00 Sat and 08:00-15:00 Sun.
Taxi fares to/from the airport are surprisingly expensive for the short distance, an alternative is to take a taxi to the tram terminus at Ilidža and then take the tram into the city centre (1.6 KM).

[edit] By train

From/To Hungary A train now leaves Budapest (Déli pu. station) daily at 09:56, arriving in Sarajevo at 21:20. One-way ticket costs more than the return ticket (€53,20). There is a dining car, but it is only operational until the train reaches Pécs and only takes Hungarian Forint. Bring some food as you otherwise will not have access to buy any for the duration of the trip after Pécs, which is over 9 hours. Typically, it departs from platform 1 and the first two cars are for Sarajevo, which may not be hooked up when the initial train arrives. So wait and do not panic. You will be bothered at least four times for your passport, and around four times for your ticket. The return train departs Sarajevo daily at 06:55 for Budapest, via Osijek and Pécs, costing 105.90 KM. It arrives at Déli pu. station in Budapest at 18:10. For more information visit Hungarian State Railways [5].

[edit] From/to Serbia

Trains operate between Sarajevo and Belgrade, leaving Belgrade daily at 08:15 and arriving in Sarajevo at 17:30. The trip costs 2267.20 RSD one way. The train passes through Croatia, so your passport will be checked four times. The return train departs Sarajevo daily at 11:35 to Belgrade arriving there at 20:09. For more information visit Serbian Railways [6].

[edit] From Croatia

There are two daily trains between Sarajevo and Zagreb, as follows:
A train leaves Zagreb daily at 08:53, arriving in Sarajevo at 18:05. This train continues onto Ploče, arriving there at 22:25 [7]
The return train to Zagreb, via Zenica, Doboj and Banja Luka, departs Sarajevo at 10:42 (having started in Ploče at 06:05). It arrives in Banja Luka at 15:42 and finally into Zagreb at 20:09. Tickets cost 22 KM one way, 26 KM return. The train does NOT have a dining car on board, though men with trolleys selling food and drink will board the train at various points on the journey. Be advised to bring supplies beforehand!
A night train leaves Zagreb at 21:24 arriving in Sarajevo at 06:39. The return train leaves Sarajevo at 21:27 and arrives in Zagreb at 06:44. While this train occasionally operates with a couchette car, the inconveniently-timed border crossing from Sarajevo to Zagreb (ensuring you won't get a full night's sleep) remains! Traveling on this train has the benefit of comfort (as opposed to the bus journey taking almost the same time), or the cost factor of flying and a night's accommodation in either city. Be careful (as with all overnight rail travel in Europe), that thieves may operate on the train, stealing passports, money and mobile phones.

[edit] From Ploče via Mostar

There is another train route from Ploče in Croatia to Sarajevo via Mostar. One of the most beautiful and scenic rail routes in Europe, travelling through lakes and mountains with many tunnels and switchbacks.
Trains depart Ploče daily:
  • 06:00, arriving in Sarajevo at 10:15, via Mostar at 07:58
  • 17:00, arriving in Sarajevo at 20:59, via Mostar at 18:38
Trains from Sarajevo to the south:
  • 07:05, arriving in Ploče at 11:00, via Mostar at 09:24
  • 18:18, arriving in Ploče at 22:15, via Mostar at 20:41
Single tickets from Sarajevo to Mostar cost 9.90 KM (return: 14.10 KM). Additional trains operate each day to the town of Konjic (about half way between the two cities). Holders of an ISIC student card can get a 30% discount.
See the Croatian Railways website [8] for more information.

[edit] By car

Roads in Bosnia are often only a single lane in either direction, and due to the mountainous topography tend to be very windy and speed limits are lower (mostly 80kph). Beware of trucks and people dangerously overtaking on any road. There are many tunnels, and you must always drive with your lights ON (day or night).
  • From Zagreb (Croatia) - taking direction to Slavonski Brod - Derventa - Doboj - Zenica - Sarajevo
  • From Adriatic Sea - taking ferry Ancona - Zadar, then by car Zadar - Split - Metkovic - Mostar - Sarajevo.
  • From Belgrade (Serbia) - taking direction to Sabac - Zvornik - Vlasenica - Sokolac - Sarajevo.
    • GEA Tours (Sarajevo and Kneza Milosa 65, Belgrade), Belgrade and Podgorica, ☎ ☎ +381 11 2686, +381 635,2686, +381 622,2643, +381 840, +381 268 5043 (). Connections by mini-van or private cars between Sarajevo and Belgrade. It is essential to contact them by phone or email prior to departure. A single journey between Sarajevo and Belgrade costs €25 and it takes about 5 hours and a half to 6 hours..  edit

[edit] By bus

There are two bus stations in Sarajevo. The main bus station ('autobusna stanica', by the train station) serves Croatia and most other international destinations, as well as destinations within the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is in the end of number 1 tram line that takes you to the old town (1.60 KM).
There is also another bus station in Eastern (Serb-dominated) Sarajevo on the outskirts of the city serving the Republika Srpska and destinations in both Serbia and Montenegro. To get to this bus station (called 'Lukavica' or 'Istočno (Источно) Sarajevo') it is probably easiest to book/order a taxi (cost from the Turkish Quarter was around 15KM in September 2005). If you prefer public transport, use 103 and 107 bus/trolleybus, or the 31E, exit at the last station, and ask people how to get to Lukavica bus station (buses and trolleybuses to the city centre depart from a terminal around 200m from where the international buses arrive). Be warned that Lukavica is the name of suburb/district, not just the bus station! In this bus station, Cyrillic script is prevalent so you should probably check the spelling of your destination. If you need Bosnian currency there is a Visa/Mastercard cash machine (bankomat) in the nearby Tom shopping centre.
At the main street in central Sarajevo there is an Eurolines office near the cathedral between the old bazaar and the city centre where is possible to get bus tickets to any other country, also it is possible to get ticket to any other major cities in Bosnia like Mostar although they do not run the services, they only provide the tickets. A ticket to Zagreb costs €30, May 2008 prices and it runs three times a day. Lines tend to be much shorter, and the staff have a much stronger command of English. This can be helpful as if you do not speak Bosnian well, it can be rather hard to get good advice from the bus station. Double-check with the tourist office as they can often confirm the existence of a route or timetable that the staff at the bus station have denied!
From the main bus station, there are several buses a day to/from Mostar which also stop at Konjic and Jablanica along the way. These leave at 06:00, 07:00, 07:35, 08:00, 08:15, 09:00, 09:30, 10:30, 11:30, 12:30, 14:30, 15:30 and up to 18:00, and journey time is approximately two and a half hours. Single tickets cost 13.50KM, return tickets are 19KM. There are also buses to Split (5-6 hours) and a daily bus to Dubrovnik which leaves at 07:00 and costs 40-160KN.
There are several buses a day from the main bus station to Banja Luka. These leave at 05:00, 07:55, 09:15, 14:30, 15:30 and 16:30. Journey time is approximately 5 hours.
The bus ride from Lukavica bus station to Podgorica in Montenegro takes 7 hours but is an absolutely amazing ride through some wonderful countryside on the route Lukavica-Trnovo-Rataj-Foca-Brod-Hum-Goransko-Niksic-Danilovgrad-Podgorica. As of September 2009, buses leave at 08:15, 09:00, 14:00 and 22:30. Cost is 35 KM (July 2008), which is about €18. Cost is about 40KM (Sept 2009) to Budva. Payment in Euro is accepted.
Buses to Tuzla leave from the main bus station approximately every hour every day. The journey takes approximately 3 hours, and costs around 11 KM (June 2006).
There is a daily bus to Graz and Vienna (Centrotrans/Eurolines), leaving from the main bus station at 08:00, reaching Graz at 19:45 and Vienna around 2 hours later. A one-way ticket is €44 (note that when I asked for a cheaper student ticket, the seller told me that this includes only Bosnian students). You will have to pay the driver 2 KM to transport luggage. There are frequent stops on the way, including for food and toilets. Do not rely on this "food stops" very much as the drivers stop at the places like local coffee etc. The problem is that it is not any petrol station and you have to have the currency of the country where you are. The longest 30 min. stop is at one village local coffee in Croatia, and if you don't have any Croatian money, you'll be waiting in front of the bus for 30 min. unable to buy anything but coffee or non-alcoholic drinks.
Do not waste your time in Sarajevo if you want to travel with Eurolines and buy your ticket ASAP because the buses to European Union use to be very crowded.
There is a bus every day to Pristina in Kosovo at 22:00 from the main bus station. The bus is listed on the station schedule as traveling to Novi Pazar, Serbia. From there it travels on to Pristina. You can buy the ticket to Novi Pazar at the bus station, or from the Eurolines office mentioned above, where you can pay with credit card. It should also be noted that the second ticket does not seem to include a seat, so even if asked don't leave your seat if a new passenger asks you to. There were quite a few people standing the whole second part of the trip, so don't end up in that situation. There was no fee for luggage for the whole journey. Once on the bus when your ticket is collected you can tell the controller that you are going to Pristina. The price from Novi Pazar to Pristina is 10 KM or €5, and payment is possible in Marks, Euros, or Serbian dinars. The bus arrives in Novi Pazar around 05:00, and Pristina around 10:00, with a stop in Mitrovica along the way.
Another possibility is to book a bus to Podgorica in Montenegro, and then travel from there to Pristina. From Pristina to Sarajevo, the bus leaves daily at 18:30.
The journey to Belgrade goes through amazing scenery, takes about 7-9 hours and was 28 KM (bought from the bus driver) in September 2005. The bus departs from Lukavica bus station in Eastern Sarajevo. There are several buses a day. There is also a daily service from the main bus station which departs at 06:00, costs 43 KM.
There are many bus lines linking most towns and cities in Bosnia and Hercegovina. See Centrotrans [9] for details (in Bosnian only). Check the transport sections of other destinations for more information. From Germany you can go by Euroliner (Centrotrans is part of it), have a look on Touring.de [10].
On all intercity buses you pay a fee for luggage. This fee of €1 per piece of luggage is paid to the driver upon boarding. Some drivers are rather picky about being paid in exact change in the correct currency (sometimes a local currency, at other instances requesting to be paid in Euros) and sometimes also refuse to be paid in too small coins. So keep some change ready.
A compilation of departure times from the main station can be found here: [11]

[edit] Hitch hiking

From Mostar, hitching a ride through the beautiful mountains up the M-17 road to Sarajevo is quite easy. Make sure you have a sign though and a Bosnian/Croatian/Serbian language phrasebook would be useful. If you have trouble getting out of Mostar, change the sign to Jablanica where traffic will branch of NW to Banja Luka and then hitch on to Sarajevo from Jablanica. Sarajevo is a long thin city so try to get a lift into the centre. If not, get one at least to the tram tracks that go there from the west of the city limits.

[edit] Get around

The centre of Sarajevo is served by a spinal tram network which makes a counter clockwise loop around the central district (the first in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, opened in the mid-1870s) and a number of trolley-bus and bus lines which fan out into the suburbs. Tickets should be purchased in advance from kiosks labeled tisak on the street or from the driver, where they cost slightly more (around 1.80 KM). Tickets should be validated upon boarding the vehicle and are valid for a one way trip only. Changing tram or bus means validating a new ticket. A day card valid for unlimited travel on all local public transport in zone A is available for about 5 KM. Please note that inspectors board public transport very frequently.
The local transit network is operated by GRAS. More information including timetables can be found at the website: [12].
To reach the Tunnel museum in Butmir you can take the tram to the terminus at Ilidža and change there for bus 32 to Butmir. Leave the bus at Butmir, where the bus turns around to go back, near two small graveyards. From there you cross the bridge on your left hand facing the airport into Tuneli Street. A better option could be to catch a taxi from the tram terminal.
In Sarajevo, street signs are few and far between, and small and on the sides of buildings too far away to see when you're standing on a street corner. Building numbers are more or less consecutive but don't follow the "hundreds" styles of the United States, e.g., 23 Bjestiva street may be blocks from 27 Bjestiva street. An excellent map of Sarajevo is available at bookstores, all of which are located downtown and not open early or late or on holidays. Maps aren't sold in gas stations or other stores. Alternatively, the kiosk next to the Latin Bridge (a.k.a. the Princip Bridge) also sells maps. Lastly, asking Sarajevans for directions is an exercise in futility. People don't know the names of streets a block from the building they've lived in all their lives. However, they won't tell you this, and as a rule will point you in some direction, usually not the right direction. Taxi drivers can't be expected to find anything but the most obvious addresses unless you tell them where to go, in Bosnian. So buy the map before you go to Sarajevo, and when you get there walk around a bit instead of taking taxis. It's a small, beautiful city with many landmarks. Getting lost is next to impossible if you have the map, and maybe a compass.
Be careful taking taxis from the main train or bus station and the airport. The well-known "taxi scam" operates in Sarajevo, where the unsuspecting tourist will be taken to a more expensive hotel than the one he or she has asked to be taken to, and the driver and receptionist will swear that the new arrival is in fact in the right place. Many accommodation options, even the cheapest, will offer a pickup from wherever you arrive, and this is usually free or at a very minimal cost.

[edit][add listing] See

  • Old Town. The cobbled streets, mosques and Oriental style shops at the heart the city are a world away from Europe, and when the call-to-prayer starts, one could be forgiven for thinking that they were actually in the Middle East. You could actually be walking by a Catholic church, Orthodox church and a Synagogue and hear the Islamic call to prayer at the same time.  edit
  • Latin Bridge. This bridge was the location of the 28 June 1914 assassination of Archduke of the Austrian Hungarian empire Franz Ferdinand, the event that sparked the beginning of World War I. A plaque commemorates the event. On the Bridge itself was a memorial to the assassin Gavrilo Princip, but this was removed during the 1992-1995 War.  edit
  • Views from Surrounding Hills. Sarajevo's surrounding hills offer fantastic views over the city, but some landmines from the war still exist on some of them. To be safe, stick to paved roads and sidewalks and do not walk into fields, grass, or wooded areas. Also be alert for stray (and possibly rabid) dogs when venturing out of the city. The hills also offer a taste of suburban Bosnian life, including some of the surviving wooden mosques from before the war.  edit
  • Yellow Fortress. The small fortress provides a great view of the city. Walk through the war cemetery at the eastern end of the old town. Another way is to follow the river upstream. Where the road forks, take the right fork (the left fork goes into a short tunnel). Follow it past Hotel Sara and up to the fortress.  edit
  • Cemeteries. With white marble grave stones for those who gave their lives at their 20s during the war, these cemeteries are a reminder of the tragedy that the city went through less than two decades ago.  edit
  • Markale Market Place, (It is a big yellow building). Marked the start of NATO intervention and thereby end of the war after a bombing which took the life of some 40 people. Markale was bombed two times, first in Feb 1994 and second in Aug 1995. First is important in terms of casualties and second is important in terms of initiating NATO military intervention. The main entrance is located on Ferhadija and backs onto Mula Mustafe Baseskije (where there is a plaque on the wall with the victims names on it). The street that runs between the two roads is called Gajevo trg.  edit
  • Vrelo Bosne. The beginning of the river Bosna where the water is pure and ice cold. In less than 20 minutes on foot from the city centre, you are out in the countryside, with no suburbs in between: unique for a large city. Here you can walk in a beautiful park, picnic and spend the whole day without ever getting bored. May 01 festival is held here.  edit
  • Vijecnica (City Hall), Obala Kulina Bana.  edit
  • Morica Han (Morica Inn), Saraci (Old town). The only preserved Ottoman Inn in Sarajevo. The first floor used to contain 43 rooms for travellers, mostly traders, houses nowadays a carpet shop and a traditional restaurant with engravings of Rubaiyat of Umer Khayam, the famous 12th century Persian poet.  edit
  • Sebilj (Fountain), Bascarsilja (Old town).  edit

[edit] Museums

Sarajevo's museums are in disrepair, due to disputes over which arm of the government is responsible for funding them. However, they are still worth visiting.
  • Bosnian Historical Museum, (100m from the Holiday Inn, just past the turn off to the Central Train Station on the left). Closes Saturday at 13:00. The moving display on the siege of Sarajevo is a must-see - if you are able to cope with the pictures of the maimed citizens after shelling of markets. Wonder at the photos of an ineffective UN providing armored vehicles citizens could wait behind before risking sniper fire to cross the street. And you will be heartbroken by the pictures drawn by children. 4 KM.  edit
  • National Museum, (In a classical building across the road from the Holiday Inn.). Closed Mondays.. Statistic displays of the natural and human history of Bosnia and Herzegovina - most interesting is the traditional Turkish style homes of Sarajevo prevalent in the nineteenth century. 5KM.  edit
  • Sarajevo Tunnel Museum, (Taxi from the centre city costs ~17 KM one way. Take the #3 tram to the end of the line from the city centre. Then get a taxi to the Tunnel Museum and walk back to the tram station if it's a nice day (takes about half an hour). Alternatively, the tourist office in the city centre offers Tunnel tours for €12, with transportation to and from the city centre included. After seeing the tunnel, they also take you on a drive through the part of the city that is in the Republika Srpska, which you can't get to via the tram.). Open 7 days a week from 09:00-17:00. This museum houses the tunnel which was used to access the airport area during the siege and ferry supplies into the city. The tunnel itself is in the garden of a house so don't be worried if you think you're headed into suburbia! 5 KM.  edit
  • Sarajevo City Museum, (in the Old Town). Newly opened, the museum traces Sarajevo's development from pre-historical times through the Roman, Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and modern times. This is a tiny museum but the cost of 2 BAM (year 2011) is worth it. The entire time spent in here will probably be less than half an hour. This is in the centre of the Old Town and an unknown (non-alcoholic) 'traditional drink' is included with the minor price of admission. The centrepiece of the museum is a model of the Old Town - it is worth seeing.  edit
  • Svrzina kuca (Svrzo house), Glođina ulica 8 (200 m north of the old town). A beautiful old Ottoman house built in the 18th century shows how Svrzo family lived there. 3 KM.  edit
  • Sarajevo Art Gallery, (On the third floor of the building south of the Orthodox Cathedral (entrance is down a side street next to the municipal government building, look for the number 8 above the door)). Small but pleasing gallery. Free.  edit

[edit] Religious Buildings

  • Stara pravoslavna crkva (Old Orthodox Church), Mula Mustafe Baseskije (Old town).  edit
  • Careva dzamija (Emperor´s Mosque), Obala Isa bega ishakovica.  edit
  • Begova dzamija (Bey's mosque). This medieval Ottoman architecture's pearl is a lovely place to visit. It is opened both to Muslims and non-Muslims,but a visiting woman needs to cover her hair and wear long skirt or dress within the mosque. It is one of the biggest mosques in the region and,for many,the most beautiful one. Bey's mosque is a few hundreds years old and it is the greatest and most important project of the vaquf of a Bey that is buried in the mosque's courtyard.  edit
  • Crkva Sv. Ante (St. Anthony´s Church), Franjevacka. Modern Catholic church with beautiful stained glass windows  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

  • Sarajevo Football Club, (Olympic Stadium). Though football quality is low, it is interesting to follow a match in a stadium which hosted the opening ceremony of 1984 Sarajevo Winter Olympic Games peacefully just a few years before war broke out.  edit

[edit] Events

Sarajevo is a vibrant city that lives all year long. Sonar [13] compiles the city's regular calendar of events to make it easier to plan your visit.
  • Sarajevo Film Festival, [14]. annually during August (but for 2010 it will be held in July to avoid a clash with Ramadan). One of the best film festivals in Europe.  edit
  • MESS - International theater festival Sarajevo. annually during October.  edit
  • Sarajevo Jazz Festival, [15]. during first week of November.  edit
  • Sarajevo Winter International Festival, [16].  edit

[edit] Winter Sports

Sarajevo offers excellent possibilities for winter sports, as 40 mins. drive from the town centre you find two Olympic grade mountains: Bjelasnica and Jahorina. With combined over 28 km of ski trail and 5,000 tourist beds, it offers what the hardcore winter sporter needs. The websites [17], [18], [19].

[edit][add listing] Buy

Look through a solid collection of historical literature at the old-school TKD Sahinpasic bookstore on Soukbunar 12.
If you can't afford the carpets and local copperware on sale there’s cool t-shirts for 20Km in the souk area. One such shop is Maloprodaja, Saraci 21.
Next to the Emperor´s Mosque you'll find the small shoemaker's shop "Andar". Besides old fashioned stuff they have some nice shoes, I got one pair of handmade sandals (Roman style) for 45 KM.

[edit][add listing] Eat

[edit] Budget

Sarajevo has countless shops selling burek (meat pie, sold in layers by weight or by piece), ćevapi and pizza stores. Pita (burek, sirnica, krompirusa, tikvenica, zeljanica etc) is a filo type pasty pie generally offered in several varieties - meat (meso), cheese (Bosnian cheese called "young cheese" similar to ricotta and never aged) (sirnica), cheese and spinach (zeljanica), pumpkin (tikvinica), and spicy potato (krompirusa). It is usually served and consumed with a traditional yogurt sauce which resembles sour cream. Most Cevapi places do not serve alcohol.
  • Ago Fast Food Pizzeria, Mula Mustafe Baseskije 17. Extremely well priced pizza in all the major flavors and pancakes for dessert at only 1 KM , a boon for the budget travelers with a sweet tooth.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Bambus, #32, Ferhadija bb 557-190. An amazing jewel of a restaurant in the downtown shopping district. You actually have to go down a small staircase and push a button to be buzzed in to the restaurant but once you are there you will be happy you took the time to find it. It is very classy, quiet, clean, English menu and the waiters speak English. Very good food at good prices. The food is cooked with pride and for the prices charged, it really is a good deal.  edit
  • Bosanska Kuca, Bravadziluk 3, Bascarsija. Seats inside and out in the heart of the old town with a wide range of traditional Bosnian food at reasonable prices. You can sit outside against the warm wall of the oven if it's chilly. Their . Muckalica, a veal broth, is delicious and good value at €5.  edit
  • Capucino, Grbavica (near river Miljacka in green area.). Delicious Bosnian meals and the best pasta and pizza in the region.  edit
  • Hacienda, Bazardzani 3, [20]. Stays open late.. Mexican food, cocktails. Large portions with very fresh ingredients and a pleasant atmosphere. 8-12KM for a main course.  edit
  • Inat Kuca, Veliki Alifakovac 1, Bascarsija. An old Turkish house by the river converted to a lovely restaurant selling hearty stew-like meals.  edit
  • Karuzo, Mehmeda Spahe bb. While it doesn't serve traditional Bosnian food, this restaurant features a vegetarian/fish based menu, with a mostly Italian influence (although sushi is also available). The pasta dishes are also highly recommended. Its a very intimate restaurant seating only 18 at a time, the chef takes your order prepares the food and serves it himself. Do be aware that you probably do need to have a good deal of time to spare - it can take a couple of hours before you leave.  edit
  • Mrkva. Traditional Bosnian food, a local favorite.  edit
  • Ottoman Kebap House. Turkish restaurant on a side street in the old town. The inner courtyard lets you eat outside while being away from the noise of the street. The staff are really friendly, and will cook the food to your desired level of spiciness. Entrees: 7-12 KM; Sargile: 8-10KM, depending on the flavor..  edit
  • Park Princeva, Iza Hrida br. 7, ☎ +387 61 222 708. Slightly more expensive than Inat Kuca, also serving Bosnian food. Located on one of the hills of the city, you have a beautiful view, especially around sunset, when you can hear the prayers from the mosques around the valley.  edit
  • Sarajevo Brewery. A large bar and restaurant near the Latin Bridge. Serves 'western' food, accompanied by a variety of beers brewed on the premises.  edit
  • Vegehana, Ferhadija 39 (opposite the Bazaar on Ferhadija. Exclusively vegetarian restaurant, very reasonably priced.), ☎ +387 33 570 682, [21]. * Zeljo, 4 different locations. Traditional Bosnian food, a local favorite.  edit  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Moja Mala Kuhinja. a small and quaint pilot project restaurant owned by Bosnian celebrity Chef Muamer Kurtagic who has hosted an array of cooking shows on national and privately owned TV stations. The idea is that the whole cooking process is open for public and his customers can enjoy the artistry of cooking the food while being educated at the same time. His menu changes daily according to the availability of the freshest and best tasting organic ingredients. Most dishes served by Chef Muamer are inspired by some of the best restaurant in Germany where he worked and honed his skills for a number of years. The restaurant can only serve 15 guests or so at a time.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

[edit] Cafes

  • Connectum/Klub Knjige, Veliki Curciluk 27, ☎ +387 33 574 700, +387 33 574 701. Part of a bookstore.  edit
  • Opera Bar/Café, B Sarajeva 25 (opposite the city's Opera house), [22]. Fast wifi connection, but the waitstaff are often unfriendly and inattentive. It attracts the acting and musical community among the regulars, though this isn't an exclusive kind of place. A bit smoky. Espresso: 2 KM.  edit

[edit] Bars

  • Central Cafe, Štrosmajerova 1, Bascarsija, [23]. Cocktail bar with great music. Get there early or call to reserve a table. The place is very busy until midnight when people leave to hit the various nightclubs around town. The street is a whole promenade with many other cafes around.  edit
  • Tre Bicchieri Wine Store & Tasting Bar, Cobanija 3, ☎ + 387 33 222654, [24]. Long list of Italian wines. Very cozy and comfortable place. Good music & relaxing atmosphere.  edit

[edit] Clubs

  • Baghdad Cafe, Bazardzani 4 (across from Hacienda in Bascarsija), [25]. Danceclub/hookah bar in one of the most crowded areas of the Old Town for nightlife.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

If you arrive late at night, the weather is right and you have a tent with you, you can camp quite undisturbedly in the park next to the Miljacka river. Chances are that there already some more tents put up Follow the road on the west side of town, stay close to the river and end up around here. In summer there is a public toilet. Be aware that this is wild camping, and there is no guard or anything.
There are numerous houses around town offering accommodation in rooms for as little as 3 KM per night, although they can be hard to find. Best bet is to go to one of the accommodation bureaus near the old town and find somewhere for a night (at their prices, with their 500% markup), then arrange with the landlord/lady to stay on for their own rate. When you get tired of being bundled in cars by various agencies to look at various far-flung and grotty rooms, nip one door down from Sartour's office on Mula Mustafe Bašeskije. Down a passage is an internet cafe with a big sign saying "ROOMS". They're cheap (€30 for a twin room) and cozy and clean enough, you get a little terrace and the staff are very friendly. Can be a bit noisy from the cafe and aircon though, but the location, virtually opposite the central square and right near the tram stop, is perfect. 'Sarajevo Accommodation' [26], run by Mersad Bronja aka 'Miki', arranges overnight stays in private rooms as well as hostels, pensions and hotels in Sarajevo and its surroundings.
  • Haris Youth Hostel, Vratnik Mejdan 29., ☎ +387 33 23 25 63, [27]. The owner, a young chap named Haris, also owns a tourism agency right near the pigeon square at Kovaci 1 and can take you on tours around the city, annotated with his own personal experiences from the war. Although you must walk uphill for about ten minutes from the main square to get there, it is worth the walk for the beautiful view and hospitable, warm atmosphere.  edit
  • Hostel & Guesthouse SA, Hrvatin 15, ☎ Arijan: +387 61 54 89 34 or +387 33 23 88 91 (), [28]. Family-run hostel. It also provides free pick up from the train/bus/airport station. It has an awesome view of the city. From €12.  edit
  • Hostel City Centre Sarajevo, Saliha Hadzihuseinovica MUVEKITA No. 2/3 (LOCATION - http://www.hcc.ba/sarajevo/en/location.html), ☎ +387 33 203 213 (24h), [29]. checkout: 10:00. Newly renovated and located in the heart of Sarajevo. Very clean and tidy place to stay with kitchen facilities, 2 large living and common rooms, cableTV, free internet and wifi. They have 4,5,6 and 10 bed mixed dorms plus 2,3 and 4 bed private rooms. Located between Ferhadija and Zelenih beretki streets. Dorm bed: €15, Dbl room €20.  edit
  • Hostel Ljubičica, (in the Old town, just next to the tram station), [30]. Note that the room offered might be a dormitory located in one of several places - it might be along Mule Mustafa ulica, or else up the hill to the east of town. If you are visiting for the first time, you can make arrangements online or by phone, and also arrange with them to be picked up at the train station, or the two bus stations in the city. Note, the owner of this hostel has a small scam going in that she charges people for a 'daily registration' of 3 BAM, despite the authorities only requiring that a person be registered once when initially entering the country at no charge. Also, the rooms and hostel are not very clean. 23 BAM/dorm.  edit
  • Hostel Posillipo, Besarina Cikma 5, ☎ +387 62 910546. Staff is very friendly and informative on everything from good restaurants to tales of the nineties conflict. 30KM.  edit
  • Hostel/Prenociste Kod Keme, Mali Ćurčiluk 15 (in the heart of Bascarsija), [31]. Single: €15.  edit
  • Pansion Sebilj, Obala Kulina baba between Careve cuprija and Novi most (at the Miljacka riverside), [32]. Most of the staff speaks English fluently. An internet-cafe is downstairs in the same house, a restaurant in the atrium. The restaurants in the Old Town, groceries and a pharmacy are all in walking distance. Dealing with the sleeping areas only - good things: Location, friendly staff, hot water, clean. Bad things: No internet, walls are paper thin - you can hear someone cough (or scream) in the next room easily as well as the loud music from downstairs until about midnight, uncomfortable slat beds. Unisex showers (only 2) and bathroom. No way to lock bathroom or shower area when inside. No laundry service, no kitchen. No lockers for gear. €15.  edit
  • Sartour Hostel, [33]. Dorm bed: €10-15.  edit
  • Hotel KAN, (near the bus station), ☎ +387 33 220 531. Single to quadruple bed- bedrooms as well as apartments. Restaurant on site and personal assistance with sight seeing. From €20.

[edit] Mid-range

  • Garni Hotel Konak, Mula Mustafe Başeskije 54 (Take the number 1 tram from the train station to Pigeon Square. Follow the tram tracks west for two blocks, and it will be on your left, look for a red and white sign.), ☎ +387 33 476 900 (), [34]. Built in 1962 and complitely renowated in 2008. Staff are friendly, speak English, and in the off season can be persuaded to negotiate. Hotel amenities include Breakfast, Ensuite bathrooms, Ensuite internet connected computers, while the hostel rooms are double bed privates with satellite television which share a bathroom among three rooms. Single: €50-60; Double: €70-80.  edit
  • Hotel Michele, [35]. This small paradise is probably the best "family" hotel in the city. The staff is wonderfully nice, breakfast and laundry included and also features private parking with direct elevator access to the room floors and wireless high speed internet.  edit
  • Motel Sokak, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 24 (just down the road from the old town central square and the tram stop.), ☎ +387 33 570 355 / +387 (0)33 446 344 (), [36]. It's small clean, quiet, friendly and comfortable, in an old building but modern inside. Double: €68.  edit
  • MD Apartmani, Bistrik 84 (200 m from the Old Town in the neighborhood of Bistrik). Family-run.  edit
  • Pansion, Ulitza Mali Curciluk 15 (in the old centre of town), ☎ +387 33 531140 (). Single and double rooms. Quiet and clean.  edit
  • Pansion Cobanija. Private bathrooms and satellite television. The rooms are clean and well-kept, and a continental breakfast is provided. €50.  edit
  • Skend Apartment, (15 minutes walk from the centre), ☎ +387 61 537775, or, for English, +387 91 2523834, [37]. comfortable, large rooms and breakfast available. Single: €35; Double: €50; Triple: €70.  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Hotel Bristol Sarajevo, Fra Filipa Lastrica 2 (15 minutes by car from airport, 5 min walk to Parliament, 5 min by car to Old Town), ☎ +387 33 705 000 (), [38]. checkin: 14:00; checkout: 12:00. Re-opened early 2011 after being completely renovated. Great rooms and comfortable beds. Friendly staff, 3 restaurants. Superior Room from BAM 160.00.  edit
  • Holiday Inn, (5 minute walk the train and bus station, and about 10 minutes' walk from the town centre.), (), [39]. Clean, safe, nice private rooms with private bathroom and shower, well-maintained. Friendly staff speaks English. Credit cards accepted. The restaurant on the third floor is great. €118.  edit
  • Radon Plaza, Džemala Bijedića 185 (at the bottom of Avaz tower, next to the BMW showroom), ☎ +387 33 752 900 (), [40]. Considered the best hotel in the city. It is named after the last name of its owner, who is also the owner of Avaz newspaper and one of the city's wealthiest people.  edit

[edit] Stay safe

There are still many minefields and unexploded ordnances in the Sarajevo area and its surrounding suburbs. Never go into damaged buildings (which are really rarely seen) and always stick to paved surfaces avoiding grassy hills that surround the city . Areas that are not cleared are marked by yellow tape or signs, but still not all minefields have been identified due to the lack of resources and the lack of International help. Paved roads are always safe. Crime against foreigners is very rare and the city is safe to visit. (As with any country in former Yugoslavia, be careful not to get into sensitive discussions about politics with people you do not know, but even those can be very educational when you come across a person who's willing to discuss it.) Be aware of pick pockets who usually operate on public transportation vehicles.
A final point on health and safety is that the air in Sarajevo can be noticeably thick with pollution, so that asthmatics or those with other chest problems may find themselves short of breath a lot of the time, particularly at night. Please do ensure you have ample medication, just in case.

[edit] Cope

France, Mehmed bega Kapetanović Ljubušaka 18,, ☎ +387 33 282 050 (), [41].  edit
Greece, Obala Maka Dizdara 1, ☎ +387 33 211 794 (, fax: +387 33 211 756), [42].  edit
Macedonia, Splitska 57, Sarajevo, ☎ +387 33 810 760 (), [43].  edit
United States, Alipasina 43, ☎ +387 33 445 700 (fax: +387 33 221 837), [44].  edit

[edit] Get out

On the Neretva river, 43 km southwest of Sarajevo lies the town Konjic where in 2011 the Tito bunker was opened for public entrance with the bijenale contemporary art exhibition. Some of the places worth seeing when you are in Bosnia also are: Srebrenica, Mostar, Bihac, Una river, Jajce.
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