Kigali

Kigali is the capital of Rwanda.

[edit] Understand

The centre of political and commercial life, Kigali dominates Rwanda and few visit the country without passing through. The city is developing fast, and is very much a showpiece capital designed to impress visitors, from the humble tourist, to foreign investors and visiting dignitaries.
With a population topping 1 million, the city spreads over several hills and valleys, with many of the better restaurants and hotels away from the traditional downtown area. The Kigali City Masterplan outlines the future for this burgeoning metropolis – with plans for a new city to be built south of the current city centre.
As a clean, comfortable and ordered city, Kigali is very popular with long term expats, and the city is teeming with westerners, from young church or NGO volunteers having their first African ‘experience’ to career development workers enjoying a relaxed lifestyle where it is safe to bring up young children. This in turn means the city supports numerous restaurants, coffee shops and supermarkets that cater to this demographic. The downside of Kigali’s popularity with foreigners is that it is easy to forget you are in Africa.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Dinky Kigali International is a delightful airport - small and organised it is rare to encounter any problems. Be aware that plastic bags are illegal in Rwanda so you'll want to conceal these well in your luggage.
KLM [1] started flights to Kigali from Amsterdam on 31 October 2010.
Brussels Airlines [2] flies to Kigali from Brussels in Belgium.
Kenya Airways [3] also has frequent flights from Nairobi.
Ethiopian Airlines [4] has daily flights between Addis Ababa and Kigali.
Rwandair [5] the national carrier, has several flights a day to other African destinations, as well as Dubai - tickets are normally booked through travel agents.
South African Airways [6] will resume flights to Kigali from Johannesburg in 2012.
Air Uganda [7] flies six times a week to Kampala

Alternative Entebbe, Uganda Some international fliers find it much cheaper to fly into Entebbe in Uganda and then take the bus to Kigali. Depending an how long they stop you at the border, the bus trip takes about 9 hours. Try to get a seat on a Jaguar bus. The seats should be booked a day or two in advance in order to get seats #1 to #4. Actual (09/2007) prices: Kampala - Kigali: UGX 25,000.00 p.p. / Kigali - Kampala: UGX 20,000.00 p.p. (strange but true)

[edit] By car

[edit] By bus

Buses arrive and depart to many parts of Rwanda regularly.

• There are a couple of daily buses that run directly between Kigali and Kampala in Uganda. The bus is cramped and uncomfortable but is the cheapest choice.

• There are a couple of daily buses that run directly between Kigali and Bujumbura in Burundi. Yahoo Car, New Yahoo and Belvedere have buses in the morning.

[edit] Get around

• Motorcyle taxis are the most popular and fastest way to get around town. The fare for the motorcycle ranges from 200 RFr-1000 RFr depending on distance, but most of the motocyclists will ask for RFr 200-500. A trip to or from the airport should be around 1500-2000 RFr. Keep in mind that on the main road out to the airport they really put their foot down. It is however a good well sealed road, nice views over Kigali City and a thrilling ride.

• Matatus (minibuses) provide major routes throughout the city and are the cheapest way to get around. The Minibus in Rwanda is one of the best forms of transport in East Africa. Most of the buses are still new and are maintined well. There are several minibus companies which connect Kigali and the other cities in Rwanda. All of them give the same price depending on the distance. For short distance, such as to Ntarama, it costs only 600 RFr. The distance to Ruhungeri cost 2500 RFr and to Gisenyi 3000 RFr.

• There are several car rental agencies in Kigali.

• There are many taxis in Kigali. If you don't want to negotiate a price or feel that you are getting an unfair price, Kigali Taxi Service [8] may interest you. They have nice, new, clean metered cars and the price is often less than the other taxi services. The airport fare, for example, is less with them than what a local can negotiate with another cab.

[edit][add listing] See

• The Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre [9] opened in April 2004 on the 10th anniversary of the genocides. Over 250,000 people are buried here, and there is a truly touching museum. Kigali houses several memorials, museums, and centers dedicated to the Rwandan Genocide.

[edit][add listing] Do

Take a trip to a craft centre, like the Dancing Pots Craft Centre or the Cards for Africa workshop and sales room in Kigali.

[edit] Learn

Learn a bit of French, maybe even a bit of Swahili and Kinyarwanda, all three are extremely useful here. English is also widely spoken, at least in Kigali.

[edit] Work

Your best bet would be with an aid organization or NGO. If you are a resident of the US or EU, keep in mind that you can avoid paying for an expensive residency permit simply by declaring yourself a tourist upon arrival and then traveling outside of Rwanda once every 90 days for the length of your day. Your 90-day tourist visa (automatically granted upon entry) will be renewed each time you leave and reenter the country (and it's a convenient excuse to go on vacation!).

[edit][add listing] Buy

Local markets are stocked with Rwandan handicrafts, clothing, fabulous colouful fabric from West Africa and just about anything else.
Locally grown tea and coffee are widely avaliable. Both are excellent. Rwandan honey is great, especially the Nyungwe Highlands type.
Passion Fruit Juice! The variety of fruits and vegetables in the markets is fantastic.
Bank of Kigali and Ecobank have several ATMs in Kigali that accept international VISA debit cards; Ecobank HQ is located in the center of town next to CNLS and near UTC / Nakumatt.
There are banks in Kigali with counter service for withdrawals.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Note that Kigali restaurants and bars go in and out of fashion, not to mention close down, quite frequently. Check for the latest once you are in town and be aware that some places mentioned in some print Guidebooks no longer exist. (The oft-mentioned Turtle Cafe has been closed since 2003!)

[edit] Budget

• Babas Cafe at the Kigali Business Centre slightly out of town. Has great wholesome food. Eat as much as you like for 3 US$.

• Le Glacon A great ice cream store.

• La Sierra Serves nearly everything imaginable

• Cafe de la Crumpet sells dog and gerbil

[edit] Mid-range

• Republika Great restaurant, great environment. In Kiyovu

• The New Cactus - Very good pizzas, popular among expats. Nevertheless the served pizzas can't be compared to Italian ones. Try to get a table in the sheltered part of the open air restaurant, it can be quite windy.

• Sol e Luna, near Kisementi crossroads and Chez Lando.

• Shokola Great restaurant, great environment. In Kiyovu, close to downtown

• Camellia tea house amazing selection of teas, good food. Lunch buffet is very popular

• Aromes good coffee shop in Remera.

• Bourbon Cafe, Union Trade Center shopping plaza in the centreville and at the MTN Centre in Remera. In 2011 it is getting mixed reviews

[edit] Splurge

• Khana Khazana serves fantastic Indian food and is one of the best and most popular restaurants in town with expats,visitors,business travellers and Rwandan citizens too.

• L'Atelier is tucked away in the residential district of Kimihurura, within walking distance of Papyrus. You may need help to find it but you'll be rewarded with serves delicious french cuisine in an intimate setting.

• Thai restaurant at New Cadillac night club was well liked when it first opened. However it is getting mixed reviews after the departure of its Thai chef. This is quite common in Kigali.

• Kigali Serena's Milima & Sokoni restaurants have good food, with special themes during the week such as the Wednesday Mongolian BBQ, Friday's African Buffet and Sunday's Buffet at Sokoni, and special themed lunches everyday at Milima..

• Chez Robert is about 5 minutes walk from Mille Collines and serves local food in a nice setting. Their dinner buffet is quite good and costs about €7 for more than 20 items. There may be better local food in a hole-in-the wall restaurant for cheaper, but this is wonderful restaurant.

• Shanghai, near Milles Collines, is a relatively unknown Chinese restaurant. Not very cozy, but the food is really good.

• Heaven, three blocks downhill from the Mille Collines, is a new restaurant serving American and Continental cuisine. A bit pricy, with most entrees costing FRW400 or above, but the well-prepared food (and fantastic dessert menu) are worth every franc.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Bottled water is recommended for foreign visitors.

• For alcohol try the New Cadillac night club and the Republica. Both are superb. Watch out for pickpockets outside the New Cadillac.

• Don't miss Planet Club at the KBC roundabout in Kimihurura, it has 2 sides, a Lounge bar with Housemusic and a Club with African and modern Hip-Hop music.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

Accommodation in Kigali is noticeably more expensive than neighboring capitals like Kampala and Nairobi.

[edit] Budget

• Kigali Hotel in the Muslim quarter behind the mosque. This is about as budget as you will get, but still not cheap. Good rooms, breakfast available.
• Auberge De Cavern hostel - style accomadation. individual and double rooms available for US$15 per night, good location near main round about in the direction of the post office and just down the hill for 5 minutes. friendly staff, clean rooms and good basic breakfast
• Discover Rwanda Youth Hostel, Kigali, ☎ +250782265679, [10]. Discover Rwanda Youth Hostel offers clean beds in dorms and private rooms as well as a free breakfast, internet access, and hot showers. It also has space for campers inside its 24-hour guarded gate. Discover Rwanda is an Aegis Trust social enterprise in which all proceeds go towards social programs offered by its parent organization at the Kigali Genocide Memorial. Dorm Bed-9000 Rwf;Camping-6000 Rwf; Private Room-12,000/15,000Rwf.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

• Hotel Isimbi, Rue Kalisimbi, District Nyarugenge (down town), ☎ +250 572578, [11]. Also has a good bar and restaurant. 30-40USD  edit
• Gloria Hotel (which currently only has cold water showers).
• Hotel Chez Lando, ☎ +250 252 584394 (info@chezlando.com), [12]. From $60 per night.  edit
• Sphinx Belair Located behind Telecom house and not far from Novotel Umubano. Standard room starting at 60 USD.
• Iris Guesthouser 75 USD, clean, big rooms, hot water, very good restaurant and free Internet.
• Step Town Motel 50 USD, clean, Very Nice Rooms, hot water, and free Internet.
• Okapi Hotel Some rooms available for US$25 per night, good location and friendly staff. Some rooms have an excellent view over the outskirts of Kigali. Just forget the USD 25.00 rooms (BTW, actually USD 30.00) . They are 'downstairs' and aren't worth USD 10.00.

[edit] Splurge

Kigali now has three international class hotels, built as part of the country's bid to increase tourism and better support business travellers.

• Kigali Serena Hotel, ☎ +250 252 597100, [13]. Formerly a Belgian-owned hotel known as the Diplomates and briefly portrayed in Hotel Rwanda. Renovated in 2003 and 2011. From $310 per night.  edit

• Hotel des Mille Collines, Avenue de l'Armée/Avenue de la République, ☎ +250 252 576530 (info@millecollines.net, fax: +250 252 576541), [14]. While the movie Hotel Rwanda was filmed in South Africa, this is where the actual events took place. The hotel has two restaurants, a pool, internet and a gift shop. The hotel underwent extensive renovation in 2010. Rates are slightly higher for pool view rooms. All rooms have safes but no hair dryer or coffee maker. Free access to Wi-Fi, but coverage is uneven. Wonderful breakfast buffet. Apart from the movie this hotel is also the setting for the novel Un dimanche à la piscine à Kigali. Prices from €151.  edit

• Hotel Laico Umubano, Boulevard del Umuganda. Still known by its former name Novotel by almost everyone. Ask for a swimming pool view room on a high floor for a beautiful sunrise to wake you from your slumber. From $150 per night.  edit

[edit] Contact

English/French language broadcasts are available from BBC World Service in Kigali on 93.9MHz.

[edit] Stay safe

Kigali is relatively safe and friendly as far as African capitals go. Keep your eyes open and your wallet out of the reach of pickpockets, especially in crowded areas. Avoid walking after dark if possible, especially alone. Take extra precaution in the area between New Cadilac Nightclub and Carwash bar.
Police officers are generally helpful if you're in a bind, but don't expect speedy results.

[edit] Cope

[edit] Embassies

• South Africa, 1370 Blvd de N Umuganda, Kacyiru-Sud, ☎ +250 252 583 185 (kigali.admin@foreign.gov.za), [15].  edit

• Switzerland, 38 Blvd de la Révolution, ☎ +250 252 57 55 34 (ac-kigali@sdc.net, fax: +250 252 57 24 61), [16].  edit

• United Kingdom, Parcelle No 1131, Blvd de l'Umuganda, Kacyiru-Sud, ☎ +250 252 556000, [17].  edit

• United States, #2756 Ave de la Gendarmerie, Kacyiru, ☎ +250 0252 596 400 (consularkigali@state.gov), [18].  edit

[edit] Get out

• Parc National des Volcans, home of the mountain gorillas, and the setting for Gorillas in the Mist author Dian Fossey's research. If you can afford it it's an excellent experience... even possible as a daytrip from Kigali. Enquire at the Rwandan Office for Tourism and National Parks (ORTPN), Boulevard de la Révolution n° 1, Kigali, +(250) 576514 or 573396, reservation@rwandatourism.com. $500 USD cash, or it is possible to use your Mastercard.